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How to Cut Lillypilly Copper Sheets

Hi this is julie with beadaholique.com pursuits so i’ve laid out an assortment here and i have a couple different styles going obviously and you’ll see i have different embossed patterns and then i also have different patinas on top of them one thing i do want to let you know is that this is actually the same patina but it’s a different coverage and these are all gonna vary of course these are different sheets because one is embossed and one isn’t but the patina you’ll see even if it’s the same style of patina the actual pattern and the amount it covers is going to vary which makes for really unique art pieces so I’ve got these wonderful embossed sheets and also a couple solid ones too that are thirty six gauge thirty-six gauge isn’t gonna be it’s really flexible I can just bend it with my hands is not taking any strength and then I’ve also got a much stronger very sturdy 24 gauge sheet as well and these are all in the copper you’ll see they’ve got their nice copper backs I have an inspiration project here that I’ve done and that’s a little headband where I’ve taken the lillypilly copper sheets actually cut a round to fit within the bezel setting here and then I took little ones that I hole punched and then I just curled their edges with my fingers so I want to show you how easy this is to cut I’ve got some sheets here I’ve already been working on now if you’re working with a 36 gauge you can cut it with a pair of scissors you can just go like that so you can get nice curves to it or if you like you can cut it with a pair of metal shears it’s gonna cut real easy as well and what’s great about the 36 gauge is you can actually hold punch it with a paper punch now bear in mind paper punches were not intended for this purpose so it is going to wear down your paper punch a lot quicker than if you’re using paper all you have to do put it in there and what’s nice you can actually see where you’re gonna punch it and I like to use both hands so I put it over it squeeze and it punches a little circle for you or whatever shape punch you have you can tell it does ruffle the edges a little bit and you can just flatten that out with your fingers or if you like you can curve it up into whatever shape you desire the edges will be a little bit sharp this is nice and rounded here but if you had a paper cutter that had square corners they are going to be a little bit sharp so bear that in mind now if you wanted to use the 24 gauge copper sheeting what you’re going to need to cut it with is not a pair of scissors but you will need your middle shears or a jeweler saw and so to cut this you can see I’ve already cut a little notch just cut it like so and it’s very easy to cut and again it will have some sharp edges so you might want to file those down with a diamond file now another option in addition to the paper punches are metal hole punches I’ve got a little round one here a 1.8 millimeter and you’ll see it all you have to do put the sheet between the two noses and punch you have a perfect little hole and that is all there is to cutting and using the lillypilly copper sheets you

How to make a plywood Tatami Bed

Welcome back! Today I’m going to make a Japanese-style bed. These beds are lower than western ones, with the mattress embedded in a wooden frame. I’ve tried to come up with a design that would be easy to make using plywood, although other kinds of wooden sheets could also be used. Besides, this design is easy to assemble and disassemble, quite convenient if we want to move. I’ve designed two types of bed. This one is meant to be adapted to a common metal bed frame which you can find in any store. As you can see, the bed frame rests on these four corners which, in turn, join all the pieces. The other bed design is of the same size. However, for this design we’ll use a homemade plywood frame. In this video I’ll show you how I made the first of the two models, although both beds have similar makes. By changing the length of some pieces we can adapt this design to any bed size. Now let’s take a look at how I made it. This time around, in order to save time I’ve ordered some pre-cut pieces from the same warehouse where I bought the board, since the parts are quite large.

I’ll start by cutting these pieces at an angle. They’ll be used to make the headboard thicker. I’ll also machine this rebate to work around the floor plinth. I’ll also glue these pieces together, onto which I will later screw the bed side rails. Now I glue the three upper side rails together to make them thicker. I machine these pieces like this and put them in place with glue. I sand these parts now that it’s easier and screw the bed side rails in like this. Now I can start assembling the bed. I cut these two pieces in half to make four supports for the bed frame. First I screw this one onto the side rails, keeping it 1mm away from the edge. I remove the piece and then screw it onto the headboard.

This way, when screwing it back on, the screws will put pressure and the joint between the side rail and the headboard will be tighter. I’ll use the same system for the back. I’ve numbered all the corners to make future assemblies easier. With these last screws I finish putting the bed together. Now it’s time to set up the nightstands. I glue these parts together and add a little salt to stop them from moving due to the glue’s viscosity. Once the glue is dry, I sand the inner part now that it’s easier and continue assembling the nightstands. I finish sanding all the pieces that make up the bed and apply three coats of satin water-based varnish. I’m going to put everything back together at the workshop to see what the finished bed looks like.

I love how the edge of the plywood looks. Of course, we could apply some dye to change the color, but I like the natural look of birch wood. .